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The Sphinx

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Bighorn T 
Cerro K'Narlé T 
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Great Googley Boogley T 
Orange Chimney T 
Single Pitch Bolt and Pro Route T 
South Face T 

The Sphinx Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,160'
Location: 37.94709, -119.22784 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,511
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bruce Morris on Jul 18, 2016
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Description 

The Sphinx (sometimes referred to as the 'Pope's Hat' or 'Pronghorn Dome' or ‘Cerro K’Narlé’ or "Mt Crumblepies") is the prominent 500 ft granite formation above the Tioga Road that can be seen from the big turn at the unofficial Warren Creek CG. The south face has several routes on it, but the best-documented (so far) is the 4-pitch "Great Googley Boogley" (5.10). The 4-pitch "Cerro K'Narlé" (5.10a) on the left side of the face is supposedly excellent and has been done quite a few times. There is a fairly detailed topo for "Big Horn" (5.10b), which is just right of the "Great Googley Boogley' The other Sphinx routes documented here are conjectural and based on old handwritten notes in the summit register and a photographic topo by Eric Gabel. If you do any of them, you're in for an adventure. So any corrections and new information would be very much appreciated.

There is also a relatively easy route to the summit of The Sphinx beginning from the Warren Creek trail head and going up the canyon on the back side, which gains the saddle via a short section of 5th class. Then there's one more short boulder problem from the saddle to the upper part of the ridge (one 5.7 move) and on to the summit. There is also an extension of the East Ridge that continues up the ridge on the other side of the saddle. The East Ridge saddle can also be accessed from the south face.

Getting There 

Drive a little over a half mile east of the Rhinedollar Dam on Ellery Lake and park on the outside of the Tioga Road directly beneath the Sphinx formation. Proceed boldly uphill over shattered slabs above the road to access the base.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.0 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Sphinx
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo of "Cerro K'narlé" (5.10b) sho...

Cerro K'Narlé 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : The Sphinx
Climbs the south-east face of The Sphinx formation through some nice corners cracks and overhangs. "Nice Sierra granite", says Sibylle Hechtel in an old summit registry entry. The route starts with a 3rd class scramble up and right to the base of the Orange Chimney where the real climbing begins. P1 Cross over Orange Chimney, climb 5.10a face with KB for pro, and climb up under arch. P2 45' classic fist crack to horizontal break. P3 Climb face t...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of The Sphinx Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 10. Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartoun...
Page 10. Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartoun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 9 Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartouni
Page 9 Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartouni
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 8 Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartouni
Page 8 Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartouni
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 7 Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartouni
Page 7 Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartouni
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 6 Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartouni
Page 6 Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartouni
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 6 Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartouni
Page 6 Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartouni
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 5 of Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartou...
Page 5 of Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 4 of Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartou...
Page 4 of Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 3 of Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartou...
Page 3 of Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 2 in Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartou...
Page 2 in Sphinx summit register. Photo: Ed Hartou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Handwritten page in Sphinx summit register. Photo:...
Handwritten page in Sphinx summit register. Photo:...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sphinx from the base of "Speed of Life" ...
Sphinx from the base of "Speed of Life" ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from Warren Creek on US 120 toward the ...
Looking up from Warren Creek on US 120 toward the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: 1000ft downhill view to the Tioga Road from the Th...
1000ft downhill view to the Tioga Road from the Th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sphinx close up of the S. Face
Sphinx close up of the S. Face

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