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The Sphinx 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Dobie
Season: Spring and fall are best pleasant crag in winter
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: RyderS Stroud on Apr 17, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Dane Schellenberg pulling into the OW on the Sphin...

Description 

A beast of a route from start to finish.

Start to the right of Akmun-Rah and to the left of Gifts under the crack that has an offwidth 2/3 of the way up. Start up a slab that steepens into a flake. The terrain will then become vertical briefly before rearing back into a huge, rounded overhang. Motor through some powerful, slopey laybacks and thrust your way into the offwidth. Grovel in the OW with some knee bars (guess which side in... it helps) for a few meters before you can finally regain some decent jams into a slightly overhung block feature. The chains will be just above this block feature.

Location 

Around the small buttress to the right of Akmun-Rah and to the left and around the arete from Gifts

Protection 

- One .5
- Two or three .75s
- Two 1s
- Two 2s
- One 3
- One 4
- One 5
- One 6


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By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
Nov 10, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I recommend climbing past the intial anchor through the 20 meter extension (5.10) to make for a full value 45 meter pitch. The extension tops out on a beautiful ledge.

Also, a #6 is not needed for the climb, save the weight on the long approach.

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