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Sphinx., The T 

The Sphinx. 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 150', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter 14th Dec 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: USBRIT Ross on Mar 8, 2006

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Ross starting the first pitch

Description 

The route takes the ridge at the rear(west) end of the Sphinx, then along a very narrow ridge to its head that is climbed up an open groove on its north side.

P1). The ridge is followed past three protection bolts and a couple of cam placements. 100' 5.9.
P2). Scramble along the back of the Sphinx to the head. 200'
P3). Climb the open groove on the left to the summit 50' 5.6.

Descent: One rap from the summit to the north.

Location 

From the parking area at the end of the mile long dirt road, hike up the talus to the west towards a prominent outcrop overhang, and then scramble up right(odd cairns) until the level part of the mesa is reached. Now traverse around the large formation to its left passing walls to the far end. Hike around the end of the walls, and then traverse back around the south side now heading south towards the north side of the Sphinx. Scramble up ledges on the east side of the Sphinx, then along ledges to the right to reach the foot of the ridge and the start of the climb.

The hiking descent from the Sphinx is shorter than the approach. After the climb head south towards the parking area that will be in view to a narrow gully above a black wall of smooth rock. Here are rap anchors. Rap down 80' then head down and across left(east), and after about a quarter mile one will locate the top of an open gully. Head down this and then more easy walking back to the parking area.

Protection 

Cams #1 Friend to #3.5.


Photos of The Sphinx. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Route
BETA PHOTO: The Route
Rock Climbing Photo: Ross and Potter on the summit of the Sphinx with p...
Ross and Potter on the summit of the Sphinx with p...

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