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The Speed Trap

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The Speed Trap Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.6232, -111.7563 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,846
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 7, 2004
This Afternoon

71° | 51°

56° | 38°

49° | 34°

52° | 36°

51° | 36°

53° | 37°
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All bolted routes on a steep east facing fin of rock, that will make the hair on the back of your neck stand on end. Walk-offs or raps are possible. The climbing is not for the weak of heart.

Getting There 

Just Before Stairs Power Plant on the north side of the road is an access road with a heavy gate. Look and see, then climb.

Climbing Season

For the Big Cottonwood Canyon area.

Weather station 1.5 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Speed Trap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Speed Trap:
Mach 5   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Speed Trap   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 35'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Speed Trap

Featured Route For The Speed Trap
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike approaching the business...

Speed Trap 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : The Speed Trap
Fire up the steep face on the right side of the wall. Move, move, and fight the pump. Clip the first three bolts of Mach 5 and break towards a fourth bolt to the right. Get your one and only mediocre rest then jump for a thin edge. Stick this move and continue up past two more bolts picking a part the last 15 feet. Eat a light lunch, its a very powerful route. A few big holds, a dead point, plenty of crimps, and a gaston! Hard if you're tall, hard if you're short, its no gi...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Comments on The Speed Trap Add Comment
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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 18, 2009
Steeeeeeeeeeep wall, it looks like another insignificant choss pile from the road but up close the routes look cleaner.
Lots of big pulls from crimps, bad feet, a bit of loose rock, and intimidating stack of blocks at the bottom and some seriously old school bolting and rating will hold your attention.

Might be good to warm up at another area...
By tenesmus
Jun 18, 2009
Just do the .10a twice, then the .11 The holds are huge.
By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 26, 2013
Not exactly an alpine feel here, but the climbing is surprisingly good and great for fitness if you dont have much time. Better climbing here than I was expecting.
Well bolted. Just hard to figure out which bolt belongs to which at first. Anchors and a couple bolts less than inspiring condition though. Could use some ASCA love.
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 28, 2013
Why on earth would a roadside crag in BCC have an alpine feel? The Sundial way the hell above Lake Blanche barely has an alpine feel.
By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 2, 2013
Yes Andrew you are right. A little sarcasm buddy. Point is its a good place to get some fitness in if you dont mind the road noise.
By pat campana
Oct 7, 2013
Tried to climb there today. I found a bunch of butchered roosters, fruit, and sheep legs at the base of it. I am serious it was disgusting. Apparently the site was used for some pagan ritual involving animal sacrafice. I called canyon police and showed an officer the site but anyone who was think about going up there I'd say wait until next season. There is a lot of blood on the rock.
By Dela Rig
Apr 29, 2015
Anyone know anything about the trad line going up the side of this thing? Rating/Quality?

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