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The Sparkling Touch 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

Type:  Trad, Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Pat Goodman, 1998
Page Views: 4,983
Submitted By: JNE on Apr 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Another beautiful Edl route!

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This is one of Vedauwoo's hardest crack problems. Start under the roof, using the inclusion on the left before the start of the crack as a foot. Pull up, establishing yourself in the flared roof with your foot still on the inclusion, and crank out to and over the lip, topping out the slab after the crack peters out. This is a true test of flared jamming abilities, no amount of face climbing will get you up this. Bring tape.

There is reputedly a V3/4 version which starts at the lip, which can be done as an invert problem, first done in the late '90s. For this variation, skip the first move, instead starting with the right hand at the lip and the left hand underneath the roof in the horrible starting flare.


This is on the north side of the large twenty foot tall freestanding boulder just below Emperor of Wyoming, which is the big dihedral roof crack.


Pad. The crux is low to the ground, so one pad should suffice. It's nice to have if you fall straight down on your back. To get down, crawl into the tree and tread very carefully on the tiny dead branches, or scootch off the edge of the boulder and jump down.

Photos of The Sparkling Touch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Sparkling Touch is the crack on the left side ...
BETA PHOTO: The Sparkling Touch is the crack on the left side ...

Comments on The Sparkling Touch Add Comment
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By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Nov 12, 2006

I remember looking at this during my first visit to the Roof Ranch. It looked so easy until I tried to get off the ground. Proud send guys!
By Davin Bagdonas
Jun 2, 2007

FA: Justin Edl.
By molony
Sep 29, 2008

From the parking lot, just walk straight towards the formation with Emperor of Wyoming on it, across the drainage and through the aspens. This boulder is very obvious, it's HUGE, much bigger than the pictures suggest.
By Joel Pattinson
Feb 21, 2009

Sweet! Always pondered that rock...nice job, Jedle!
By strappoh
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2009

Great, you can downrate it now that you found out you are not getting credit for the FA.
By strappoh
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 6, 2009


Guess I hit a nerve.
By superhero
Jul 8, 2009

Sweet my pimp name is sticky fingers Bryan silk.
P.S. Pablo is no homie of mine.
By superhero
Jul 8, 2009

GOODMAN, I'm calling bullS#!T on your recent FA claims in Vedauwoo.
By Pat Goodman
From: Fayetteville, WV
Aug 2, 2009

Superhero - You're right! I just sit around on my big-fat-ass and troll the web looking for ways to get attention.
I don't realy care that much if I get recognized for first ascents I may or may have not done at the Voo, just want folks to have some consideration for history. If you need the big numbers and FA credit for your sponsors, you can have it!! Now that I think about it, I have never even been to Vedauwoo....
At least I can make a post on the inter-web and use my real name, so people like you can send me hate mail - I luv it!!
By Bjorn
From: Leadvegas, CO
Aug 17, 2009

Crazy Eyes Bjorn Flex at your service. Or dis-service.

For whatever it's worth, I feel strongly that Vedauwoo climbers should be above this manner of online bickering and mudslinging. It's very out of character with the area, or so I would have liked to believe.

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