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The Brown Wall
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Game of Drones T 
Gator Boy TR 
Gay Blade S 
Legacy, The S 
May Divorce Be With You T 
New Vector T 
Pat Me'groinagin T 
Penetrators, The T 
Reptile T 
Reptile Tears T 
Sampler Plate T 
Shadow, The S 
Smausser Traverse Thing... T,S 
Spark, The T 
Stegosaur T 
Thunderstruck T 
Zorro T 

The Spark 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Mike Anderson, April 2015
Page Views: 583
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Jul 13, 2015

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Mike Anderson nears the end of the crux section on...

Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Spark is a face climbing testpiece on a beautiful swath of Thunder Ridge granite. The route has a much more distinct crux section than its neighbor (Game of Drones), knocking its quality rating by a star, but the climbing is still brilliant!

This was Thunder's hardest route when first climbed, a title it held for a few weeks. It was my foray into route development at Thunder and sparked an infatuation that I hope grows into an enduring love affair.

Start behind the tree, scrambling up some ledges and possibly place a cam, then fire up the faint, left-facing dihedral. Get a good shake at a ledge at the 3rd bolt, reach up and clip the fourth, then fire into the crux sequence involving some long reaches on rounded edges - be ready for some super powerful crimping!

Persist through a couple more bolts, then the angle eases on the well-featured slab which you'll follow (placing gear) the shared anchor on the top of the wall.

This was an epic to bolt on the FA as I dealt with a jammed bolt and failing battery that left me running it out great distances. I returned and added bolts later after making the FFA.

Location 

Located on the Brown Wall directly behind the large scorched ponderosa, this is listed in the Haas guide as "11. Unbolted Project". The route joins the Schmausser Traverse on the featured slab and shares its anchor.

Protection 

About 7-8 bolts, then a few pieces of gear to protect the 5.6 slab to the anchor.


Photos of The Spark Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A nice view of Thunder Ridge from near the top of ...
A nice view of Thunder Ridge from near the top of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: ...and be ready for some slabbin'.
...and be ready for some slabbin'.
Rock Climbing Photo: You'll need to mind your footwork to have any hope...
You'll need to mind your footwork to have any hope...
Rock Climbing Photo: The cruiser climbing and rest before the crux on T...
The cruiser climbing and rest before the crux on T...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Anderson crimping like mad on the crux of The...
Mike Anderson crimping like mad on the crux of The...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Anderson nearing the end of the crux on The S...
Mike Anderson nearing the end of the crux on The S...

Comments on The Spark Add Comment
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By dameeser
From: denver
Feb 21, 2017
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This is a rad route. I can see it being a lot harder for shorter people. I'm 5'9", and the way I did it felt like low 5.13. Thanks, Mike!
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 10, 2017

Yeah, I can see that. It's kind of a one move wonder, so reach might knock it down. I'm psyched someone got on it! That rock is perfect!

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