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The Southern Seas 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown (possibly S. Annecone and B. Ruckman, 6/2012)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 708
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Aug 19, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The Southern Seas route, merging with the South Fa...

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  • Description 

    This route was top-roped from the 2-bolt anchor on the east ridge, shared with the top of the 3rd pitch of the South Face. It starts at the same place as the South Face route. It follows a more or less direct line straight up to the anchor. We TR'd it in June 2012, but I suspect it's been done before as it's pretty easy to set up from the fixed anchor.

    The crux is about midway up traversing right under the small, flaky roof shown in the photo. It's fairly steep and sustained 5.10 and 11- climbing, with lots of fun moves in a nice position. It has nice crisp holds with only a little lichen here and there.

    Judging from the photo recently posted for Belladona, this top rope travels some of the same terrain on that route, perhaps 30 or 40 feet in the lower half? There's not much natural pro in there, so I'm guessing the Belladona FA was a bold one!

    Location 

    Climb either the East Ridge, the South Face, or South Crack to the two-bolt anchor on top. The start from the ground is where the South Face starts, but go straight up and over the lower roof instead of trending left under the roof.

    Protection 

    Top rope, bring two 60-meter ropes.


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