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The Sorcerer
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Sorcerer's Crossing T 
Sorcerer, The T 

The Sorcerer 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jim Dunn and Chris Wood, 1977 FFA: Jim Dunn and Leonard Coyne, 1978
Page Views: 1,246
Submitted By: Shanti on May 10, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: The Sorcerer

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Climbs up the left side of the pillar. Pitch 1: 5.10 offwidth past 3 star-drives to 3 bolt anchor. Pitch 2: 5.9+ wild chimney/tunnel to 3 bolt-anchor. Pitch 3: Strenuous and unique 5.11d off-width/squeeze chimney past two drilled angles and one lead bolt to two bolt anchor. Pitch 3 is the crux - exposed and committing. Decent: 3 rappels down route.


Rack: Singles from fingers to hands, extra large gear (Big Bros, #6 and #5 Camalots)
2010: All anchors at belay stations replaced.

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By Shanti
May 11, 2010

Pitch 3 of this route is one of the most wild and difficult vertical offwidth squeeze chimneys in the desert and was established by Jim Dunn before the invention of Big Bros or big cams. This route is still a sandbag over 30 years later.

By Evan Deis
Apr 4, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R

P3 is a nice squeeze chimney like Charlie Sheen a good father figure. Single rack is good. (2x) 5+6. I also recommend 2-3 tips sized pieces. I had 1x purple TCU and wish I'd had more. This will help backup an old leaper at the start of p3.

'Big thanks to Dunn, Coyne and Wood for this wild and unique experience.
Another thanks to Shanti for the new anchors.

Also; It could be my imagination but I think this route deserves an S Rating.

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