The Sorcerer Rock Climbing
The east face of the Sorcerer is very steep and home to some of the most classic climbs in the Needles. The major lines, right to left are: Scirocco (12a), Wailing Banshees (11-), Don Juan (11b), Thin Ice/Ice Pirates, and Atlantis (11c). The Fire Wall is beautiful glowing wall that stands apart from the main wall on the lower east face. It is home to a few one pitch testpieces including the arching undercling of Pyromania (13b).
The upper west face of the Sorcerer has a few shorter lines as well.
Approach most climbs by decending a narrow passage between the Sorcerer and Witch (closer to the Witch). Climbs are then accessed by a long ramp system along the base of the wall.
Descend by making a long rappel down the narrow northern ridge to the Sorcerer-Charlatan saddle.
Weather station 10.1 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Sorcerer
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Sorcerer
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Sorcerer:
Thin Ice 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches
Pinhead 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
The Raven 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch
Tradewinds 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Atlantis 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Scirocco 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Pyromania 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For The Sorcerer
Pinhead 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b California
: Southern Sierra
: ... : The Sorcerer
A stellar one pitch thin seam on the northwest face of Sorcerer. Purity of line, sustained and technical, beautiful rock with very fine moves make this a single pitch classic on a cliff full of multi-pitch classics. A challenging lead.Climb a thin crack up to a roof, pass the roof (crux), and continue with sustained 5.10+ to a fixed copper head. Sustained 5.10a (R) stemming past a 3-4" flared groove with a bush. Continue up 2-3" grooves and stems to a second roof sustained 5.10a. Pass roof ...[more] Browse More Classics in California
Climber on Thin Ice, The Sorcerer.
The Sorcerer... there were a mess of climbers at t...
Sorcerer - Lower East Face with Devil's Dinette th...
sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.
BETA PHOTO: The Sorcerer. This is Stephen high on the 1st pit...
Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from S...
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 30, 2014
Descent with a 70m is fairly straight-forward. Rap to the Sorcerer-Charlatan notch and then east down the weakness. There's a two bolt anchor about 20' below the notch and 70 barely reaches. Tie knots!