The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse) Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: A few routes on the left side.
The Solar Dome is a small, non-descript crag uphill and a bit West of The Upper Security Risk. Really, it looks like a small, improbable blob with little to offer. In fact, The Solar Dome is a well-developed sport crag on short but typical Boulder Canyon granite. Most routes are under 70 feet in length and have been well-bolted. Surprisingly good climbing can be had for such short routes. Since the crag sits on top of the hill, it gets good sun all day long. However, it also picks up most of the bad weather blowing through Boulder Canyon. On a warm summer day, The Solar Dome is a great place to catch the rays and pick off a few good climbs. The climbing is largely 5.10 to 5.12, although a few very moderate lines have been installed. Presently, there are at least twenty routes in place with link-ups possible for many of these.
, 7+, 1p, bolts.
B. Montana Floodgates
, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Burning Up The Hillside
, 11-, 1p, 60' bolts.
D. The Homesteader
, 11+, 1p, bolts.
ED. Walking with the Homesteader
, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
E. Walking On The Sun
, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
F. Altoids On The Beach
, 8, 1p, bolts.
GH. Waves On The Beach
, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Waves Of Rays
, 10, 1p, bolts.
I. Nuns On The Beach
, 11+, 2 starts, 1p, 60', bolts.
J. Kelp Bed Freak Show
, 11-, 1p, 55', bolts.
, 10, 1p, bolts.
L. Howl Of A Hungry Cat
, 10+, 1p, bolts.
M. Lady Of The Light
, 12-, 1p, bolts.
N. Uptown Venus, 12, 1p, bolts.
N1. Fire Starter
, 10 or 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Willie's Wake Up Call Girl
, 11+, 1p, bolts.
P. Morning Sunshine
, 7, 1p, bolts.
AA. Lipstick Sunset
, 12, 1p, 30', bolts.
BB. The Tanning Block
, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
CC. Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob
, 11-, 1p, 35', bolts.
The most hassle free approach to The Solar Dome is to hike up from The Upper Security Risk crag. This adds about 10 minutes to the hike up from Boulder Canyon making the entire walk at least 45 minutes. In the past, it was possible to approach The Solar Dome from the North, parking on the hill just before it drops down to Dream Canyon parking. This entails crossing private land, which has caused some trouble in the past several years and is to be avoided if possible. That said however, we have used the Northern approach after first checking with the landowners.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
20 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse):
Featured Route For The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)
The Homesteader 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Colorado
: Boulder Canyon
: The Solar Dome (aka Lightho...
In the middle of the alcove on the far left side of the Solar Dome is an inverted V-slot. The Homesteader fires up the slot to gain a system of huge holds for a jug haul kick. The single hardest move at 5.11d comes right off the deck passing the first clip. After that, climbing is probably not much harder than 5.9 or 5.10. The stone is good, the holds are unbelivable, and the wall turns out to be very steep - if only there were several hundred more feet of the same climbing! The Homesteader is a...[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado
BETA PHOTO: Beta pic of right/lower part of Solar Dome.
BETA PHOTO: Beta pic of Solar Dome - right side.
|Comments on The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)
By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Oct 29, 2001
Do not think that the long hike will mean fewer crowds! It's a good spot to meet and greet the sport climbing crowd.
By Chris Lee
Nov 12, 2002
Nice hike and scenic place to climb moderate routes. Thanks goes out to the people who installed the routes. Good job!
By Jeff St. Pierre
Jan 6, 2003
MMmmmm... Warm. Nice place in the cooler months, if there's not much wind.
Nov 28, 2005
Climbed in short sleeves on Nov. 20, a day when the Boulder high was forecast around 55 (don't the know actual turned out to be down there but it felt warmer than that here.)
By S. Kimball
Dec 2, 2005
Do the climbing community a favor, drill a few more holes in this and return it back to the rubble heap it is.
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 15, 2008
Hmm, no one there (besides me/partner) on a lovely 50 degree (in Boulder, sunny, low wind) late fall Saturday. I guess crowds come and go.
By Mark Rolofson
Mar 15, 2017
For complete & accurate route info please refer to my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I - Lower Narrows & Dream Canyon". Rick Leitner & I established most of these routes from December 1997 to March 1998. While climbing at Upper Security Risk Crag in December, I noticed the sun stayed on the south-facing wall, that soon became Lady Of The Light on the Solar Dome, until 4:30pm. With the sun setting at Upper Security Risk at 3:45pm, this made the Solar Dome seem rather appealing.
After establishing the first route "Lady Of The Light", we decided to focus our energy toward exploring the Solar Dome. After seeing dozens of parties hike up to Upper Security Risk just to climb "Pup", the only 5.9 sport pitch, I decided the area could use more moderates. There are some excellent 5.10 routes & a few easier pitches. No need to bring any gear, just draws & a rope. "Waves On The Beach" & Altoids On The Beach" are 85 feet in length. Everything else is shorter at 40 to 60 ft, with three short routes of 25 feet on the two large boulders.
The cliff is great for winter sun, but beware the harsh winds. The wind is far colder up here on the rim of the canyon than below. Shade can be found on the right (east) & left (west) side of the crag during the longer days of Spring through Fall.