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Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T 
Bad Finger Couloir, The 
Bib (1st Apron), The T 
Black and White T 
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River 
Crystal Couloir 
Diamond Couloir 
Double Dragon (right side) 
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 
Ghost, The T 
Goldfinger Couloir 
Iration T 
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T 
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte 
North Face Crag 
North Face Snowfield 
Northwest Couloir T 
Road Less Warren 
Road, The 
Shooting Star T 
Silhouette T 
Snave Direct, The T 
Snave, The 
Snorkmaiden's Surprise 
Sunrise Couloir T 
Telepherique 
Tike's Trike T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Snave Direct 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b WI2-3 M1-2

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow [details]
FA: Jacek Czyz, solo, June 29, 2009
Season: winter, spring
Page Views: 603
Submitted By: Jacek Czyz on Dec 14, 2014

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First pitch on the lower band of The Snave Direct....

Description 

This route was first described as “Alpine Rock” at “Mount Evans, North Face” mountainproject.com/v/the-snav....

From Summit Lake Bowl, climb south mostly on steep snow, exactly to the base of the main summit of Mount Evans. From here, The Snave takes long traverse left just below lower cliff band. We climbed some sort of small ramp/steps/ledges just below the upper part of The Snave Couloir (first crux WI2-4, M1-5 unless a lot of snow). There is a possible belay above at the old bolt, on left side of the couloir. After crossing main couloir, climb a brilliant, narrow band of snow and ice falling straight from summit block. This runnel began more vertical, more like a narrow chimney. Above a small overhang (2nd crux - 4th, M2), climb 50' of mostly snow to the notch few feet left and below the big, detached summit block.

The lower cliff band (first pitch/crux) was climbed mostly on snow and is listed at 2009/06/23 by Scott Borger + Dennis ? + Jeff Fox. TR.

Location 

This is the steep wall just below main summit.

Protection 

Solid rock. Bring a few stoppers and cams to maximum of 3". Also, it is useful to have 1-2 short screws.


Photos of The Snave Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On left first band/crux of The Snave Direct with T...
BETA PHOTO: On left first band/crux of The Snave Direct with T...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on The Snave Direct of Mount Evans. Photo: J.Cz...
Me on The Snave Direct of Mount Evans. Photo: J.Cz...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Snave Direct, 2009/06/29. Photo: J.Czyz
The Snave Direct, 2009/06/29. Photo: J.Czyz
Rock Climbing Photo: The north wall of Mount Evans. The Snave and The S...
BETA PHOTO: The north wall of Mount Evans. The Snave and The S...
Rock Climbing Photo: The first crux at the most worst condition is WI4+...
The first crux at the most worst condition is WI4+...
Rock Climbing Photo: On left first band/crux of The Snave Direct with T...
BETA PHOTO: On left first band/crux of The Snave Direct with T...

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