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The Snake 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c PG13 [details]
FA: 1957 John Turner, John Brett
Page Views: 139
Submitted By: Bill Kirby on Jul 5, 2016

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The first pitch of The Snake

  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The Snake is a fun easy route. The 1st pitch ascends a slab by following ledges to a crack. Go up the crack then step right (crux) to a scoop. Belay at the tree with a rap anchor. Second pitch (5.1) traverses a ledge on the left. You can clip fixed anchors along the way. Go up a corner, (crux)sometimes wet, to a big pine tree. You can rap from here with two 60s. The third pitch wanders left around the corner to an exposed 4th class slab and ends at a manky rap anchor.


    100 feet past Discord when approaching the route from the campground trail. Once you past Discord just look for a long ledge stanting up and left ending at the top of a slab with a tree on top. The rap anchor on the tree is set up high.


    Two black aliens or .1 cams come in handy at the first pitch crux for the 5.4 leader or those not confident on runout slab. A #3 protects the crux of the second pitch if it's wet. Otherwise standard rack

    Comments on The Snake Add Comment
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    By topropetoughguy123
    Aug 20, 2016

    does it end in the descent gully? can you solo the route without a rope?

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