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The Snake 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: L. Treiber, B. Grubbs, J.Biggs
Season: Not Summer
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: sean peters on Feb 13, 2016

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun route that seems a little harder than 5.5. A difficult start leads up to a tight chimney that you get to thrutch your way up. Good gear the entire way. It is probably wise to stop and belay after the chimney. Do a short and exposed traverse out right passing an old, rusty bong to another exposed crest of rock that will take you to the summit. A final airy step across that is protected by a bolt leads to the true highpoint.
This route felt harder than its neighbor Tinkerbell which is rated 5.7.

Location 

You can find this route on the west side of the formation and near the northern end. The chimney will be obvious. We used two ropes to rappel off the summit but I believe one rope (we used short 60 meters...) would be fine--a 70 meter would be no problem.

Protection 

Nuts and cams from finger to #5. One bong and one bolt. Three bolts on the summit to rappel off the formation.


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By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 14, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

P2 offers zero options for protection; if you botch the 5.5 face traverse (beware the hollow flakes!) or the class-4 ridge-hump above that, you'll be facing a huge pendulum-swing into a healthy saguaro.

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