REI Community
The Smoke Bluffs

Select Area...
2nd Ave 
Auntie Gravity 
Black Zawn, The 
Boulder Gully 
Bughouse Heights 
Burgers and Fries 
Cabin Boy's Office 
Call It A Day 
Crag X 
Crystal Wall 
Elephant's Arse 
Fatty Bolger and Ferret's Folly 
Fern Gully 
Funarama- The Nusery 
High Cliff 
Island in the Sky 
Junkfood Wall 
Krack Rock 
Lunch Break Wall 
Neat and Cool 
Nubile Woman 
Octopus Garden 
One Toque Wall 
Penny Lane 
Pink Cliff 
Pixie Corner 
Respiration Rock 
Ronin's Corner 
Runestone Wall 
Split Beaver 
Tunnel Rock 
Wall Area 
Zip, The 

The Smoke Bluffs Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 49.7061, -123.1401 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 133,077
Administrators: Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Mar 22, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Smokebluffs Crag Map

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


This semi-residential area of Squamish has a large concentration of small crags (twenty or more depending on how you count). They tend to be single pitch, but there are a few multi-pitch routes.

The routes are on generally excellent granite with a great mix of pure crack, friction slab, and delicate face. There are some overhangs, some wild ones even, but the vast majority of the routes are vertical to slabby.

The access issue relates to parking. There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.

Getting There 

Driving north into Squamish, after passing the Chief, the hospital sign, and going over a bridge, you come to a traffic light. The intersection has a McDonalds and a mall on the left. Go right onto Logger's Lane and follow the curve of the road around left. A few hundred meters down the road there will be a turnoff to the right marked with a sign that indicates the climbers parking lot.

Once in the parking lot you will see Boulder Gully to the west and a gravel road to the south that gives access to the rest of the crags.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.2 miles from here

341 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',93],['2 Stars',162],['1 Star',58],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Smoke Bluffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Smoke Bluffs:
Cat Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Neat and Cool
Laughing Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Wall Area
Pixie Corner   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   Pixie Corner
Phlegmish Dance   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Wall Area
Quarryman   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Penny Lane
Octopus Garden in the Shade   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Octopus Garden
Mosquito   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Wall Area
Wonderland   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   Pixie Corner
Penny Lane   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Penny Lane
The Zip   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Zip
Flying Circus   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Neat and Cool
Smoke Bluff Connection   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   Wall Area
Neat and Cool   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Neat and Cool
Jabberwocky   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Wall Area
Split Beaver   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Split Beaver
Popeye and the Raven   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Penny Lane
Climb & Punishment   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Penny Lane
Partners In Crime   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Penny Lane
Yorkshire Gripper   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Penny Lane
Crime of the Century   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Penny Lane
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Smoke Bluffs

Featured Route For The Smoke Bluffs
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the crux on Penny Lane.

Penny Lane 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  North America : Canada : ... : Penny Lane
This is a classic Smoke Bluff crack. Start with a few boulder moves off the ground. Move up into the shallow corner by stemming and jamming, it eases up as it gets higher.The route has no anchor at the top so you must build a gear anchor (BD .4 or yellow Alien are useful), and rappel using a single 60m off the bolted anchor 20' to the left....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of The Smoke Bluffs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Smoke Bluffs
The Smoke Bluffs

Comments on The Smoke Bluffs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
May 10, 2009
There have been many changes in the Smoke Bluffs recently. The trail from the parking lot now runs closer to the base of the cliffs, avoiding the steep gravel road. This helps climbers avoid getting plowed by mountain bikers as that road is part of very popular loop. It also brings people closer to some often overlooked crags like Crag X and Easter Island. Trail work on the Loop Trail has also been very positive.

There has also been a ton of scrubbing, entire crags have reappeared out from under the moss. Harry Young in particular deserves a great deal of thanks for this. The Funarama crag, for example, is now almost entirely scrubbed. New route activity has also flourished with much activity on the right side of Penny Lane and others scattered around. Between the scrubbing and the new routes I wouldn't be surprised if there is 20% more climbing available now compared to three years ago. One thing that will keep the moss from taking over again as quickly has been some judicious pruning of trees. Many formerly shaded and gloomy crags get good sun now.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About