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The Slash 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Hong and Karin Budding, 80s
Page Views: 340
Submitted By: Brent Barghahn on Sep 15, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Route overview

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Approach pitch: 100ft, 5.5
Wander up the slabs, ledges, and corner systems aiming for the base of the obvious hanging crack. Pro is sparse, but the climbing is easy. Belay at 2 bolts.

The goods: 50ft, 5.12a
A reachy first lock gets you off the slabs into a strenous traverse. A tricky corner turn gives way to hand jams straight up to the top. 2 bolt anchor. Short, but burly and 30° overhung the whole way. A worthy hard crack climb, though a bit gritty for now.

Descent:
Route is now equiped with ring hangers at the top of both pitches. Can be done in 2 raps with a single 60m, but watch your ends.

Location 

Look for slash crack high up on the left side as you enter the gully.

Protection 

Single rack to 3, doubles 0.4-1 could be useful. Sharp jams, tape up!


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By Cole Bradburn
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 27, 2016

Went up to try this route last night. Super awesome but still a bit dirty. Also, I was on the jug right below where the crack transitions and goes straight up and got bit by a bat.... Sounded like there were a bunch in there. One was pissed and clinging to the highest 1.25 inch cam that I had in. Time to get a rabies shot for me! This route would be super good if it got a good cleaning. I might clean it unless someone else does it before I get up there again.

Cheers!

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