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The Slanting Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Archbold
Page Views: 75
Submitted By: Wilson On The Drums on Aug 24, 2012

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This is the left to right rising crack to the left of Dirty Earnie. It's a little dirty itself and doesn't seem to get much traffic, but it's a fun climb regardless. After clipping the bolt (optional) you'll encounter the sequence of 5.8 moves. After gaining the upper portion of the climb it's a easy jog to the top.


Left to Right rising crack just right of Dirty Earnie. You'll see the one bolt about 12 ft up.


There is one bolt on this route but it really isn't needed. There is a good pocket maybe a foot to the left that takes a decent cam placement and another good pocket after the bolt to the right that takes another. Good gear throughout. Currently has no anchors, either set up a trad belay or finish the easy 5th class arete to the top of dirty earnie and use these anchors to belay from the top. Must be followed due to the nature of the L-R crack.

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By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Nov 5, 2012

fyi, new guidebook lists this climb as 5.9+...
By Mike Cohen
Jun 25, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I climbed this on 6/20/14, and the single bolt on the route popped out completely with almost no resistance after I started climbing. So I guess this is no longer a mixed line.

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