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The Slammer Jam 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Larry Treiber, John Byrd, Sept. 1972
Page Views: 4,977
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Nov 13, 2006

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Larry Coats and Gordon Douglass on Slammer Jam 2nd...

Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is another of the stoic straight faced 5.10s at GM. This line starts off the second belay of the Classic however you want to get to that point.

Pitch 1 (3 total)Climb out onto the left wall via jam crack and continue up and left into another system and follow it until you can traverse right to a small belay stance above corner. 5.8.

Pitch 2. Climb crack to move left into a left facing corner that arches to the left. Follow that to an open belay (gear) 5.9.

Pitch 3 (5 total). Climb up right facing corner to roof and pull roof on the right side. Continue up crack to the top. Spectacular and physical pitch. Site of some really good whippers.

Location 

On the wall just left of the Flying Buttress.

Protection 

Standard rack, wires and many runners.


Photos of The Slammer Jam Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The airy traverse. A BD #3, #1 and #2 worked just ...
The airy traverse. A BD #3, #1 and #2 worked just ...
Rock Climbing Photo: And then there's the step over move ... nice to ha...
And then there's the step over move ... nice to ha...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hopefully this helps: basically straight up throug...
Hopefully this helps: basically straight up throug...
Rock Climbing Photo: What not to do, ha! 
 
 The bushy crack climbers r...
What not to do, ha! The bushy crack climbers r...
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch of The Slammer Jam
1st pitch of The Slammer Jam
Rock Climbing Photo: The Slammer Jam
BETA PHOTO: The Slammer Jam

Comments on The Slammer Jam Add Comment
Show which comments
By Larry Coats
Aug 31, 2007

And just to clarify the history, the photo of the last pitch is on The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly (5.10+), the first ascent of Slammer Jam (Trieber, Byrd) exited on Candyland 5th pitch.
By ccmski body
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Yes- Lovejoy has told me about this common misconception. What most people call The Slammer Jam now is really The Slammer Jam -> GBU. Either way, the final pitch is the best. The approach (whether done as 1 or 2 pitches) of Reunion -> Cracklover's is recommended. Nice position and exposure on this line!
By Greg Opland
Administrator
Sep 11, 2015

Friend pointed these comments out to me and I'm curious... it appears from these LMA notes that were in the '73 guide that Treiber and Byrd aided the last pitch of Good, Bad, and Ugly on the FA of Slammer Jam, but there seems like more to the story.
I'd be very interested in hearing more!

Mountain Project won't let me post it big enough to read, so you'll have to click a few times to get to a readable version...

Rock Climbing Photo: LMA Notes from the '73 Guide To Granite Mountain
LMA Notes from the '73 Guide To Granite Mountain
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Oct 3, 2015

Greg, those are fascinating notes on this route -- I'd love to see the whole thing. Could you send it via DropBox or something? It's really a great link up -- we did the first pitch of Crack Lovers to the tree, then linked the 2nd of Crack Lovers with the first of Slammer. 2nd pitch of Slammer was the tough one (in our opinion it was harder than the last pitch with the roof) and then the exit out what Cramer's guide calls the 3rd (last) pitch of Slammer and what these comments and your doc suggest is the last pitch of G.B & U. (which makes sense given what a gorgeous straight line that is). Sweet sweet!
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Oct 3, 2016

Could link p1 and p2 and avoid the "gear intensive" pseudohanging belay. "Gear intensive" pseudo hanging belay takes finger and smaller size pieces.

Gear: Doubles from Red C3 to #2 c4 useful. Single of #3 and #4 also useful.
By Tim Heid
From: AZ
Sep 23, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

We linked P1-2 of Crack Lover's, then linked the next 2 of SJ, and pitched out the last one. It worked well except I mistakenly traversed too far, going to the left most crack on P1 of SJ. This provided hysterical rope drag after moving back right into the correct crack higher up, then arching left AGAIN at the end. Thankfully the dogleg left learning crack is easy! It was a bit hard to pick the best crack from below it since the correct crack had a ton of vegetation in it. Even so, definitely link these 2 pitches since the second would be really short otherwise... just don't be a knucklehead and pick the correct crack early on!

The last pitch is short, maybe 50', but fun. I felt the roof was easy, but the layback off the belay ledge was tough! Fun line with great position!
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Oct 3, 2017

Did this again and it's one of my favorites. Watched Tim's rope drag shenanigans the week before and could relate from my first time up it -- would recommend to any who find themselves in a similar state to build and anchor before the left arching wide crack and traverse on the second to last pitch rather than try to power through. There's a good ledge pretty high up in the right crack section. Any which way, any gardening efforts will be helpful as the grass certainly adds a spice to the section before the arching crack.

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