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Slabbage Patch
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The Slabbage Patch 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dave Bingham, 1989
Page Views: 239
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 11, 2014

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The crag’'s namesake is old school "sport" climbing --– runout and gear required –-- but guaranteed to be memorable for anyone who decides to take the sharp end and take the leap for the starting holds. Begin with a hand rail and no-hands stand up to the first bolt (ankles be damned, unless you cheat and stick clip), followed by insecure smearing to a thank god flake, maybe expanding but at least it’s big. Jam a cam or two in the flake (remember the expanding part), then relatively easier climbing gets to another bolt. Buckle-up here to get to the next bolt, then confront the crux, and clip and grin your way to the anchors cuz you flashed a good one. Gym rats likely will be terrified, but I wouldn't change a thing.


Walk up the hill from Deez. Look for a bolt a good ways up, below a huge horizontal downward-facing flake. Lower from anchors.


Draws for four bolts and the anchors, and some select hand-or-thereabouts cams for the flake.

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