The Skin Flute Couloir
||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1400', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a AI3 M2 Steep Snow [details]|
|FA: ||Justin Watts, Derek Wolfe, |
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring or Late Fall|
|Page Views: ||1,269|
|Submitted By: ||Furthermore on May 21, 2012|
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Crux area of the climb.
From the base of Fluted's East Face, climb the prominent couloir in the middle of the face just south of the summit.
The climb starts as a moderate snow climb until two short AI2/M1-2 sections are encountered. After climbing past these 2 rock/ice bands, the crux is encountered. Either climb a short 30-40 foot AI3 pitch or a 100 foot mixed chimney (M2/5.3) on the right. The climb continues as a moderate snow climb until nearing the top. If a cornice blocks further progress in the main couloir, take a hidden left spur couloir ~100 feet below the ridge.
The top of the left spur becomes a steep snow climb. From the ridge, hike 3 minutes to the summit.
The best descent is to either climb up and over Little Horn Peak or descend Flute's north ridge to the Fluted-Horn saddle and then back to Dry Lakes.
The route is located in the center of Fluted's East Face.
A limited rack with a few cams/stoppers and 2 ice screws.
Martersteck climbing the WI3 pitch.