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Siren, The S 

The Siren 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: David Rubine and Will Chen - 1989
Page Views: 748
Submitted By: Keith Forest on May 25, 2010

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The Siren is an exceptional face route on the downhill side of Lower Phantom Spire. It follows a line of 10 bolts to the top. It is noted by an obvious roof about two thirds up the spire. Surmounting the roof is the crux.

There is a bolt belay just before the crux for those wanting to do a 5.11a or do it in two pitches. The rock is perfect and the climbing consistently challenging. The route was established ground up and on sight.


Lower Phantom Spire. Located on the downhill left-hand side facing the spire. Starts off a walk-on ledge, up a short/steep/shallow/crack-less corner past two bolts to a third bolt and stance. The route then traverses to the left and up to the roof past a series of bolts to the top. Rap off back/uphill side.


All bolts (some mid-sized camming units can be placed just over the roof in a horizontal crack if someone is uncomfortable clipping the bolt a few feet higher). This bolt protects the crux.

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By Aidan Maguire
Oct 21, 2011

There is a lower off anchor and the climb can be TR'd with 60 meter.
By Salamanizer suchoski
From: Vacaville Ca.
Mar 24, 2014
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The roof is definitely harder than 5.11d. Up to the first anchor is one of the best 5.11 face routes around and is very sustained.

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