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The Shivering Sphincter 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
Season: All. Especially good in the cold. am shade. pm sun
Page Views: 330
Submitted By: BBQ on Nov 24, 2013

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The Shivering Sphincter. A good winter climb for t...


Sick, good fun, and usually shady. This route delivers a stiff boulder problem right from the get go. Start with a right hand pocket that can be used like a multi-tool. Crimp with your left hand and stick a left foot up high. Rock on that left foot to a dynamic move that ends with a super-duper, left-hand pocket that is an absolute bucket.

From this bucket hold, move right to a hidden pocket that is located around a corner in the blonde area. Get set up on small, yet secure feet and you are off the races. Cling and layback your way up a flake. Stuff your fingers and hands into all sorts of pockets and work your way from small, insecure holds to jugs with lots of big, five-fun-plus moves that will keep your sphincter clenched all the way to the anchors.


Find the flagship wall with routes like Pular Express and head back towards the road on a trail on the left side of a downed tree. Yes, you can use the tree for a comfortable bench. Walk this trail just a short ways past the short, black rock with four bolts in it. The Shivering Sphincter is the right most route on a black face found, within a small alcove, up the slope a bit from the trail.


Stick clip first bolt. Bring 8 quickdraws. Open anchors.

Photos of The Shivering Sphincter Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bullet-Proof, black rock. Big reaches to sweet hol...
Bullet-Proof, black rock. Big reaches to sweet hol...
Rock Climbing Photo: Big ledges.
Big ledges.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lee freezes his fingers on the huge holds of The S...
Lee freezes his fingers on the huge holds of The S...

Comments on The Shivering Sphincter Add Comment
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By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Apr 22, 2014

Wasn't there a route or two on this wall?
By lee terveen
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Apr 25, 2014

There still is. They are just a little revised.

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