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The Shining 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rick Fairtrace, Scott Jones 1987
Page Views: 723
Submitted By: valparaiso on Aug 12, 2013

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Lean across the gap between boulder and wall and grab a crazy chunk of rock sticking off the wall. Climb to a roof and pull onto the face and a beautiful crack. Continue up the last three quarters of the route jamming in the crack. Is there still a fixed nut in the alcove at the top?

Protection 

bolted anchor


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By aribtraryusername
Oct 17, 2016

10-16-16: there is a loose block in the crack, after you pull the initial roof section and before you reach an ok rest at a horizontal. you can fingerlock next to the block and sidepull the block and it won't move. but if you pull down on it from the top it will shift out towards you. just a heads up. there is good gear in the horizontal so you don't have to place next to the block.

this is an awesome route.