REI Community
Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar T,S 
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 
Black Pearl S 
Blows Against the Empire T 
Chaucer T 
Cornered, straight up variation T 
Criller  T,TR 
Dihedral T 
Do or Do Not T 
Double Cracks T 
Easy Off T 
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 
Faith, Hope and Charity T 
Fickle Finger of Eight T 
Forbidden Planet S 
Good Mourning T,TR 
Home Free T 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 
Let's Jet S 
Narrow Gate, The T 
No Visible Means of Support T 
Nova T,TR 
Off The Cuff T 
Peanuts T 
Pretender, The T 
Right Escape T 
Sacred and the Profane, The S 
Scorpions T 
Shield, The T 
Sickle T 
Star Track T,TR 
Strata Outta Compton T 
Strolling T 
Tracer T 
Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
Whiskey Gala T 
Wired T 
X-Wing T 
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 
Your Basic Lieback T 

The Shield 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Mike Brooks and Andrea Azoff, 1986. FFA: Ken Black
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin, 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 1,058
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on May 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The Shield. Pins marked with a 'P' and bolt with a...

  • Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route has some tragic history as written in Rossiter's guidebook, but don't let that steer you away. The crux pitch is excellent with thin technical moves that keep you thinking and searching for the correct sequence.

    The first pitch is pretty contrived and hard to locate as it appears to climb a blank slab with no gear or major features? Another option is to climb an easy flake to the left and follow the ramp right to the start of the second pitch. There is really no reason to stop and belay on the ramp since your only about 30' or 40' above the ground at that point.

    The second pitch follows a thin flake with a pin and then breaks right to a bolt. Getting to the bolt is a bit spicy, but the bolt is bomber. Continue up a thin crack with another fixed pin and into a broken-up section of rock and belay on a ledge. The book says there's an anchor at the end of this pitch, but we never saw one.

    There is no description for the last pitch in the book, since the route write-up states that it was never completed. But we traversed right on a lichen covered ledge and climbed straight up a dihedral to the top. This pitch was sketchy with lots of lichen and loose rock and difficult to find gear placements. Probably would weigh in at 10- PG13.


    This route is located to the right of "Young, Blond and Easy" just right of some large trees that are near the base of the wall.


    Mostly small cams and RPs and maybe one large cam (#3.5 Camalot) for the last pitch. Fixed pins and one bolt.

    Comments on The Shield Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Joe Huggins
    From: Grand Junction
    Jun 19, 2008

    Interesting to see this here; of course after Kenny died the route got the name Psycho Killer due to Kens' seriously unstable personality. The story continued to get interesting after the accident; I won't risk being disrespectful in this post, suffice it to say perhaps there is such as thing as karma or destiny.
    By Joseph Crotty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Jul 24, 2008
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

    After the crack tapers into a left-facing corner in a sloping dish feature and the climbing eases way up climb up another 10' feet and set a bely on a nice ledge that is a bit jagged in spots. Save a gold and red Camalot for the belay. Pitch two is fairly dirty and probably gets done once every five years or so. I was scared considering this was only 5.9 climbing. I wonder where Kenny took the plunge from?

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About