The Shield Direct
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BETA PHOTO: Bent Tree Area at Little Stony Man with The Shield...
Move up through easy ground to the inside corner with a smooth face to the right. Follow the corner up, passing an old pin at about mid-height. Make a few awkward moves to gain a stance below the roof and place some good gear.
Pull the roof (crux) using a thin rail, some finger-locks and a pinch on a block. Small feet but it's all there. Once you gain a stance above the roof, follow the corner directly above (don't go left...more rope drag) and finish up to the top.
Vincent Penoso: "I named this route because of the triangular rock at the crux that to me at the time looked like a shield. There were 2 ways to do this route. Once you got to the shield there was a place to place a cam straight up under the little roof with a double runner, but then there was a simple move to the left to a key hand hold that put me into the corner and I could move around that small corner and then continue up along the left side in a channel to the top.
The harder variation you have to place that cam with a double runner because of the rope drag otherwise, and you go straight up and over...I didn't lead this variation."
Begin in the same area where Kopley's Corner and Longhorn start. Look for an inside corner with a smooth face to the right and an obvious overhang above that looks like a blocky "shield".
nuts, tricams, cams up to #2 BD size and small cams (C3s or Metolius).
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Sep 30, 2013
Quality route, one of the best here. Surprisingly, the roof is spot on at Seneca 9+, hard but do-able. Fun moves up the corner then a hard sequence and above your gear at the roof. Just keep moving and don't get pumped out!