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The Sheepgate 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
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Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Matt Farrell on Feb 2, 2015

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Shares the start with Hard Attack, but steps right around the mid-height roof into strenuous tips jams. The crux is above the top of the columns, climbing past a pair of roofs with 3 lead bolts. Shares the anchor with Hard Attack.

Location 

Left of Wave of Mutilation (the short 5.12 sport route).

Protection 

Gear to 2.5", bolts.


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By Jon Rhoderick
May 9, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

One of the best routes on the East Side. Bomber pro bottom to top, and great movement from jamming, tips, stemming, and dynamic pumpy climbing up high. Think Master Looney on top of Neutral Zone, and then some. Why aren't people lining up to do this one?

addendum:
Sprained my ankle really bad last year when the rope got caught in the crack 30 feet below me and I fell with 0 rope moving through. It's worth placing a piece there just to keep it out of there. Probably wouldn't have happened if I didn't take so you should just go for it!

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