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The Taipan Wall
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Serpentine T,S 
Seventh Pillar, The T 

The Seventh Pillar 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: FA: Ian Guild and Mike Stone - 1966
FFA: Davey Jones - 1997 (via variations Kim Carrigan freed much of the route prior to this)
Page Views: 875
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jul 5, 2007

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Description 

The Seventh Pillar was the first route up the central portion of the Taipan Wall and is still perhaps the most popular route (as an aid climb) up the wall even though there are easier free routes. It is commonly done at 5.9+ C1, but Dave Jones freed the route at 5.13 via a new 5.11 first pitch that avoids the bolt ladder and a minor variation to the second pitch that gives the route it's free climbing crux.

Begin in the center of the Taipan Wall a little left of Serpentine, just right of Sirocco.

P1: If aiding, do a belly crawl right and climb the obvious ladder of studs (supposedly some of these timebombs have been replaced by Safer Cliffs Victoria in 2004) up a white streak. Otherwise (recommended), climb up and left via a cool, awkward hand traverse and then ascend a large, left-facing flake to its terminus. Here clip a bolt or two and perform a wild, unprotected solid 5.11 traverse right to some good holds and the anchor atop the original P1. A fall from here results in a clean but terrifying penji across the wall. Mandatory 5.11.

P2: Climb 5.10 up a flake to a leaning rooflet. Place an RP and clip a bolt, then aid out left or free climb (I do not know if this has been repeated) up over the roof. The original/aid variation is desparate and reachy; the free variation also appears this way. Continue up easier rock to a huge horizontal break and belay.

P3: The book calls it ungradable, but come on, its maybe 5.7. Traverse straight right across the wall via the horizontal break. Eventually stand up on the ledge and set up a spectacular belay. Similar to the Black Canyon's Womb Fight. A few fixed relics on this pitch.

P4: Climb steep, juggy, decomposing rock past a carrot and a pin to the top of the wall.

Descend via rappel from a bolted rap left of the top out. Two ropes required.

Protection 

Standard rack plus a few carrot hangers.


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