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Penitente - Entrance Area
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Unsorted Routes:

The Serpent 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mac Ruiz, 11/90
Page Views: 2,808
Submitted By: shad O'Neel on Sep 9, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (84)
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Desi starting on the upper half of The Serpent wit...

Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 MORE INFO >>>


This is another good warmup in the easy alcove area of slabs on the right as you walk in (underneath and to the right of Captain America). It may not be as interesting as its 5.7 neighbor to the right, but it is worthy nonetheless. There are interesting slab moves that steepen at the top. The direct start is harder than 5.8. Expect a mob scene of families clambering away on busy weekends, but it is worth a visit when no one is around.


6 bolts, plus anchors.

Photos of The Serpent Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The line laid out with the quickdraws.
BETA PHOTO: The line laid out with the quickdraws.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearly the full glance at The Serpent.
Nearly the full glance at The Serpent.

Comments on The Serpent Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dylan Kuhn
From: Reno, NV
Apr 8, 2007

I think the nice 5.7 is Mr. Wind, to the left of this route....
By Armin Colorado
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 3, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Direct start felt like 1 move of 10.
By David Bayendor
From: Denver, CO
May 30, 2009

A very hard direct start. If you make the start slightly right it is a great friction climb as you move onto the main line. Past the ledge and continuing up the excellent finger crack. Six bolts, solid 5.8.

To clarify, this route is right of Mr. Wind, so the previous poster is correct. While I was there four of us did this and all felt it to be easier than Mr. Wind (5.7).

Once I led this and set it up as a top rope, I had my girlfriend work the friction start on the left side to get her used to that kind of foot work.
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Aug 30, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The direct start, I would say is 5.8. It's just strenuous movements on small holds. The right side of this is definitely 5.7.
By Mike Smyth
From: Spartanburg, SC
May 29, 2012

New hangers and anchors as of 2 weeks ago. There is a block near the top, a bit right and below the anchor, that is coming a bit loose. Be careful of it.
By ErikaNW
From: Golden, CO
May 26, 2014

The mussy hooks at the anchor were missing their gates (open hooks) and were replaced with rap rings (part of the 2014 re-bolting project weekend).

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