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Peeler Face
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L to R R to L Alpha
Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T 
Birthday Route T 
Black Mamba T 
Black Peeler T 
Ezra The Catamite T 
Golden Eye T,S 
Hell Broke Luce T 
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 
Nazi Love Slaves T 
Orangutan Afternoon T 
Peeler Direct 
Serpent, The T 
Skin Man T 
Stag Party T 
Tin Man T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Serpent 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A3

Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A3 [details]
FA: Drew Bedford, Kurt Fashanpaur: 1988
Page Views: 1,020
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jan 10, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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  • On private land. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    P1: Traverse to a thin seam. Climb straight up to Black Peeler. Traverse right on Black Peeler to belay at a two-bolt station.
    P2: Traverse left and up a wide crack/flake (5.11a R). Belay at a two-bolt station.

    This is a variation pitch to the Black Peeler. Downclimb the ramp from the Peeler Direct first pitch belay. Swing out the roof via bolts, then stretch for a placement. Climb the corner up to another ramp, then traverse to the second pitch anchor of the Peeler Direct. Make sure to protect the second when you leave the crack and free climb to the 2nd pitch anchor. Fun pitch, and a great, harder alternative to the Peeler Direct splitter.


    Approach from Black Peeler or Riveting.


    One 160' rappel from the final two-bolt station.


    Aid Rating 5.7, A3

    Aid Rack: I recommend 2 hooks, 10 heads, 4 cam blades (be delicate), 16 cams (0.3"-4"), 16 nuts (0.3"-1"), 64 carabiners & 16 runners (24").

    In general, thin to medium pitons. Bring some mashies along, in the event that a fixed one pulls. Regular aid rack otherwise.

    Free Rack: I recommend 4 cam blades (be delicate), 16 cams (0.3"-4"), 16 nuts (0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners, 16 runners (24") & 2 brass testicles.

    Comments on The Serpent Add Comment
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    By drewford
    From: Wasatch Back, UT
    Mar 29, 2008

    Someone forgot the aid rating. Probably A3. Your mileage may vary.
    By Brent Barghahn
    From: SLC, UT
    Aug 18, 2017

    I trundled a 2ft wide x 8ft tall portion off the pasted flake pitch. This was the ear feature with a hairline crack showing it as detached from the main flake. The pitch is now much safer, and straighter without the midway jug. Still soft R for the initial undercling with decking potential, but the main flake remains solid and takes gear well.

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