REI Community
The Pharos
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Lamplighter T 
Second Coming, The T 
Spiral Staircase T 
Trojan T 

The Second Coming 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Thomson & Wilkinson - 1976
Page Views: 62
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
p 1

Description 

This excellent testpiece begins in the center of the back wall of the Pharos.

P1: Begin on Kingdom Come's crack and traverse up and left towards a small corner (crux). Continue up into the Judgement Day traverse, performing its crux mantle, and then head straight up to a good belay ledge. 90', 5.11b.

P2: Step airily out to the right to a finger crack and follow this up, generally staying just left of the arete. 100', 5.10+.

The crux, about 25' off the deck, was the scene of one of my scariest moments climbing: I headed up off the ground on pumpy terrain and got my first piece, a 0.75 Camalot in a slot, about 20' up and just before entering the crux sequence. Needing this slot for my hand, I wiggled the cam around a bit until I had room for my my fingers, and then climbed up past it. I didn't realize that I had actually dislodged the cam with my fidgeting until an accidental bump with my toe sent it sliding down the rope to the ground. I remember my belayer saying something like, "Don't fall," to which I screached in sweaty-palmed, cruxing terror, "I KNOW THAT!!!" Fortunately I made the next few moves and was able to fish in another piece.

Protection 

Standard Rack.


Comments on The Second Coming Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About