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The Schrödinger Equation 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Judd Layman, Andrew Melvin, Steve Goins, 1997
Page Views: 97
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Jan 29, 2017

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Five-nine with a capital PLUS. Eat your wheaties, kids!

Work your way up a large, right-leaning corner past bulges and overhangs. The crack is mostly hands, but sometimes wider. Eventually you'll end up in a chimney beneath the final sequence of horizontal overhangs. Can you solve the equation? Be warned: it may be time-dependent!

After moving out all the overhangs and turning the lip of the roof, easier climbing leads up about 20 feet or so to slings around a decent-sized tree backed up with a small stopper. Rappel from here.


Way way down there. From the popular beginner climbs Little Steps and Starting Point, head left down the wall for awhile until you cross below a low-angle waterfall. After the waterfall, continue along the cliffline for a ways until the wall cuts back to an alcove.

In the alcove is an obvious crack/corner system that works up and right to a substantial, intimidating series of horizontal roofs that move out right. About 20 feet off the ground and 20 feet right of the corner system is a large, rounded, right-facing flake system. This flake isn't part of the climb, but it's a useful feature to confirm you're at the correct corner.

Have fun!


Double up on the hand-sized stuff, and maybe bring a #4 Camalot C4 to be safe.

Anchor at the top is slings around a reasonably-sized tree. When we climbed it the tree was backed up by a small stopper and a sling.

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