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The Schrödinger Equation 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Judd Layman, Andrew Melvin, Steve Goins, 1997
Page Views: 97
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Jan 29, 2017

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Description 

Five-nine with a capital PLUS. Eat your wheaties, kids!

Work your way up a large, right-leaning corner past bulges and overhangs. The crack is mostly hands, but sometimes wider. Eventually you'll end up in a chimney beneath the final sequence of horizontal overhangs. Can you solve the equation? Be warned: it may be time-dependent!

After moving out all the overhangs and turning the lip of the roof, easier climbing leads up about 20 feet or so to slings around a decent-sized tree backed up with a small stopper. Rappel from here.

Location 

Way way down there. From the popular beginner climbs Little Steps and Starting Point, head left down the wall for awhile until you cross below a low-angle waterfall. After the waterfall, continue along the cliffline for a ways until the wall cuts back to an alcove.

In the alcove is an obvious crack/corner system that works up and right to a substantial, intimidating series of horizontal roofs that move out right. About 20 feet off the ground and 20 feet right of the corner system is a large, rounded, right-facing flake system. This flake isn't part of the climb, but it's a useful feature to confirm you're at the correct corner.

Have fun!

Protection 

Double up on the hand-sized stuff, and maybe bring a #4 Camalot C4 to be safe.

Anchor at the top is slings around a reasonably-sized tree. When we climbed it the tree was backed up by a small stopper and a sling.


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