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The Schoolmaster 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A0 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 160', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A0 PG13 [details]
FA: Sam Lightner and Josh Gross
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring or Fall
Page Views: 2,679
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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On the summit looking down. It's like standing on ...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Schoolmaster is what we named the tower at the very northwest end of The Wall. The summit of this tower is roughly the size of an ironing board. The start is found between the tower and the wall. Getting up on either side of the tower requires a little fourth class on loose ground.
P1 5.9 hands, finger, and then a chimney. Decent gear, but don't fall. It ends on a large ledge with good anchors.
P2 goes up the obvious arete. Its best approached as a "French Free" climb with 5.10 moves between good bolts. A sling to stand in at a couple of the bolts will be useful, but a solid 5.10 Indian Creek climber should be fine without full-on aiders. Two boulder problems make this a very difficult endeavor to free. Also, keep in mind there are loose, giant blocks you have to contend with as it is the desert! The stand-up at the summit is a dizzying move. Despite the 5.10, A0 rating, this is not a giveaway.

Location 

The obvious tower as you come up the trail to The Wall. Two raps on a 70 meter rope will reach the ground. A 60 may reach, but it will be close.
Its labelled #1 in the picture.

Protection 

A few hand and finger pieces for the start, then maybe a #5 in the back of the chimney. You need about a dozen quickdraws for the last pitch.


Photos of The Schoolmaster Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the shadow of the Schoolmaster
the shadow of the Schoolmaster
Rock Climbing Photo: School Master tower on a blue sky day.
School Master tower on a blue sky day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Schoolmaster and near-by routes.
Schoolmaster and near-by routes.
Rock Climbing Photo: Schoolmaster at sunset
Schoolmaster at sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: Great route
BETA PHOTO: Great route

Comments on The Schoolmaster Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren Knezek
Mar 26, 2008

Hey Sam,
I climbed this tower a few days ago and had a blast! I loved the way you bolted the top part as it kept the excitement super high, instead of a simple bolt ladder. That summit has to be one of the cooler desert tower summits I've ever stood up on. I had to wait about 5 minutes for a break in the wind to be able to do so without getting blown off. I felt like I was riding a surfboard on the summit!!!

I think that you could do the upper pitch with slings, but I took one aider and it was perfect and my partner had one aider also.
For some reason it took a few minutes to figure out which crack to climb in the back. Maybe in the description you could say that there are two cracks back there, an offwidth and then a crack to the right that arches left and allows access to the upper part of the offwidth.
My climbing buddy loved the 1st pitch as he had to climb a little out of his comfort zone. He used cams from .5" to 3.5" for the bottom crack and then 4" to 6" for the upper chimney/offwidth.
We used a 70-meter and a 60-meter would be a little short for the last single rope rappel.
What a great tower to get the FA on, certainly a feather in anyone's cap.
By j wharton
Apr 14, 2012

Mike Pennings and I free climbed this route at .12+. Crux pitch involves two height dependent boulder problems seperated by a no-hands rest on a diving board feature. The second crux is the harder of the two. Pretty damn fun route, and a nice alternative when your fingers hurt at just the thought of actual Indian Creek climbing!
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Apr 14, 2012

Seriously nice job JW!
By Josh Gross
Apr 15, 2012

Mike, JW nice job!
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0 R

Desert tower adventure at it's finest!! The first pitch could be downright terrifying for someone unaccustomed to old-school 5.9+ sandstone. Heads up: after stocking the paper-thin flake with TCUs, make damn sure that you don't botch the tenuous transition into the chimney. On that note, there would be potentially grave consequences for somehow blowing the subsequent 20 feet of unprotected 5.8 squeeze. The upper part of the chimney, with its thick coating of birdshit, protects fine with camalot size 1-3, although big pieces would work too. The summit pitch is a blast (no matter how you do it) and the ironing-board summit totally worth it!
By 303scott
Mar 6, 2017

Fun tower and a great way to end a day at the wall. The starting pitch has two options: squeeze chimney from the get-go or 20 feet of a slanting hand to finger crack to get to the squeeze. We chose the squeeze, which was quite enjoyable. A #1 behind a chockstone provides some psychological pro to get into the squeeze, and then 35 feet of unprotected chimney climbing. However, it is a perfect squeeze, albeit a bit tight at the start, so you aren't going to fall out. Larger folks may have a hard time getting in. Rack for this option is singles of #1 and #3 and two #4s.

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