All Locations > Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Bolton Area > Bone Mountain > Main Cliff > F. Moose Bones Area

The Schistine Chapel

Name: The Schistine Chapel
Rating: 3.0

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in F. Moose Bones Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Give a Dog a Bone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Moose's Tooth, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Schistine Chapel, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Skeleton Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 85 ft (26 m)
FA:	Kristen Fiore Nov. 4th, 2014
Page Views:	771 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Kristen Fiore on Nov 4, 2014
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

A hard and exposed line taking the direct route up a wild face of rock with two distinct cruxes.

Begin in the corner as for Skeleton Crack below the gently overhanging face. Work up and left on a beautiful undercling feature (.75 cam protects). Business starts early when the crack runs out forcing you to work up on a painful left crimp and make a desperate series of moves to surmount the first lip. Gain a no-hands stance before committing to the long line of bolts through a series of various overhangs with incut holds. One more no hands stance can be negotiated before another tough crux on hidden holds and a final technical sequence guards the final ledge and a two bolt anchor.

The initial crux sequence can be avoided by leading the first 20 ft. of Skeleton Crack and traversing left. The rating would be about 10d.

Location

Locate the giant 20 foot cave home to Moose's Tooth and Give a Dog a Bone. To access the climb either climb one of the two roof cracks or locate the 5.5/5.6 slab approach on the left end of the cave. Work up on to the giant ledge and start in the corner on a ledge with a small tree. The start is the same as for Skeleton Crack. Instead of working up the corner, traverse the beautiful undercling left.

Protection

While it is listed as a trad climb it should be noted that it only requires one .75 cam to protect the initial traverse. The rest is fully bolted.

It can also be toproped by climbing Skeleton Crack and traversing a few feet over from on anchor to the next.