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Boulderfield Gorge T 
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Hand Me Down, The T 
Hari-Kiri T 
Into the Fire T 
King Tut's Tomb T 
Kung Pao Chicken T 
Manana T 
Mantra T 
Mental Block T 
Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route T 
Post Tramatic Climbing Disorder T 
Sceptor, The T 
Sphinxter, The T 
Spiderman T 
Tilted Mitten, Left Side T 
Tilted Mitten, Right Side T 
Unagi T 
Unknown 5.10 T 
Unknown 5.9 T 
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Yami Shami S 
Ying-Yang T 

The Sceptor 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 135'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Don Reid and Alan Roberts (1987)
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: Bryan G on May 12, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a really nice crack which is on the west facing buttress a little further uphill from "Into The Fire" and "Kung Pao Chicken". It would be a 3-star climb if it was cleaner. Scramble onto some small ledges from the right and build a belay anchor at the bottom of the crack (bring some extra .75" cams for the belay). Climb straight up the crack, with a crux in the upper section. Near the end of the crack, traverse left to a bolted anchor on a small ledge.

I think an 80m rope will just barely make it back down. We had a 70m but I was able to make it to a ledge system where I could scramble off to climber's right on some 4th class terrain.

Also bring a bolt kit if you have one. The anchor is a couple 1/4" bolts with old tat.

Protection 

Pro from micro to 3" with doubles from .25" - 1.75". And I would recommend bringing all the .75" cams (purple C4s and orange TCUs) that you have, since it's nice to put a couple in the anchor for your belayer at the bottom, and that's also a very useful size to have on the climb. And some small offset cams would probably be useful in the section leading up to the crux.


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