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The Scarab 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A0

Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A0 [details]
FA: FA: Leah Pappajohn and Mike Dobie, March 2015. FFA Drew and Diana, December 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: Drew Marshall on Jan 15, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: the Scarab


Two unspectacular approach pitches lead to the money pitch - a 35m technical corner system

The first 5.11 pitch is probably worth skipping via a 4th-class alternative

p1: 5.11, 10m OR 4th class
build a gear anchor by the start of a short crack
Climb the crack and build another gear anchor behind a solid flake (top gear anchor takes .5 to 2)
Alternatively, climb a short squeeze chimney 15m to the right, and walk left along an exposed ledge (4th class)

p2: 5.6R, 20m
Angle right up a run-out dirt ramp, lassooing a tree for pro (triple-length sling)
Bolt anchor

p3: 5.11 A0, 35m
Aid off of a bolt using slings (a blind .2 placement may be helpful) to reach the start of a corner system. Climb the stellar corners
Bolt anchor

Two rappels with a 70m rope reach the starting ledge


150m right of Da-Nile, scramble left along a ledge
The 4th class start begins with a short right-facing squeeze chimney.
The 5.11 start begins 15m left of the chimney, at a short flake below a triangle block at the bottom of a crack.


Camalot X4:
.2 (3-5x)
.3 (2x)
Camalot C4:
.3 - .75 (2x)
1 - 4 (1x)

long slings
70m rope

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