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Penitente - Entrance Area
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The Sangrador 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, '89
Page Views: 77
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 MORE INFO >>>


A powerful boulder problem off the deck with bad feet gets your attention right away, then a beach-sized ledge provide some much needed R&R before the headwall. This has classic Penitente face climbing on the upper wall with nice moves on brilliant stone. The midway ledge is the only thing keeping this thing from four star euphoria.


This is the next route left of the popular "Bucket Slave".



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Jan 20, 2011

I looked at this route the other day from the ground and was inspired. I'm waiting for a warmer day to give it a try. It looks like you can stick clip the first bolt, but then it looks a bit runny to the second with groundfall potential. It also looks like there might be opportunity for some gear placement in between. Does anyone have any comments on this one? Thanks.
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 23, 2011

You can always stick clip your way up the whole thing. It's a long way to a hospital from there, so don't do anything crazy for 40 foot sport climb.
Mar 27, 2011

I got on this route yesterday. Thankfully I didn't have to stick clip my way up the whole thing, but thanks for the tip, Mike. Just an FYI for anyone planning on getting on this - the nut on the first bolt was loose. Next time I get out there I'll bring a wrench. The anchor has two homemade hangers and only one has a chain.
By William Mondragon
Sep 19, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

For the whole route I was wishing I was 4 inches taller. The clips are great though. Stick clip 1st. That opening boulder problem is a little hard for .12b. For me, it felt V5 or V6. Get on sister of mercy!

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