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5.2 Top Shelf
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Right then, I’ll go to Hell TR 
Allowed she would Sivilize me TR 
Cartwheel through a Mosque TR 
Cross Bronx wrong exit TR 
Further Bus TR 
Left Bracket T 
Lemon Tart TR 
Madness in Any Direction TR 
Masters of the Universe TR 
Maybe it Meant something TR 
Not Eternal TR 
Opened my Mouth, Almost TR 
Sampo, The TR 
Too Rare to Die TR 
Too Weird to Live, and TR 
Väinämöinen TR 
Warn’t no home like a Raft TR 

the Sampo 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: TR Will Bergman + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 23
Submitted By: kenr on May 16, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Top Shelf left+center E. Väinämöinen F. the S...

Description 

Challenging moves which are not necessarily fun. Good choice if want to work on mantle technique (or crimps on horizontal edges).

Up to left side of rock protruding from obvious horizontal break. Get foot up onto protrusion, then over the bulge, using the arete on its right side.
. . . (Harder if do not use arete, easier if touch foot into gully on right side of arete).
Next a mantle onto a slopy ledge, which likely will feel awkward the first time.
. . . (but on top-rope could repeat it, get more toward "elegant").

name? From the Kalevala of Finland.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

Face between vertical crack and the obvious gully / wide crack in the middle of this sector which goes up to an overhang at its top right. Below from between a pancake and a bit protrusion in the obvious horizontal break about 20 feet up.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection 

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Top Shelf sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


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