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The Sail 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  TR, 21'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 2,409
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 22, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: The striking Sail Boulder (5.11b/c) at Mt. Woodson...

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


If the Uncertainty Principle is the patriarch of Mt. Woodson, then The Sail is the graceful matriarch. This gorgeous boulder sits way atop the hill and faces southeast. Although it is readily seen on the way up, the best visual comes after rounding the corner past The Cave.
Nonstop technical face climbing is the name of the game, with none of moves being arbitrary. Start just left of center up 5.10+ territory, halfway up move right a few feet, then finish up through 5.11 moves to the top. Crux comes pulling past a brown squarish hold, easily seen when scoping this route out. Stellar.


Set up is either climbing the northeast edge/arete (no pro, 5.9+) or throw the rope over and batman up the backside. Two bolts at the top.

Photos of The Sail Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Eden Anbar past the crux
Eden Anbar past the crux

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By Adam Stackhouse
Jun 29, 2006

To mitigate the potentiality of blowing off into a gully from the 5.9 arete, I found some security in using a cheatstone or two to get up to a good hold and go from there to set this up.
By ron amick
From: poway, ca
Oct 1, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Rick Allenby and I placed a bolt on top of the sail in 1986. we did the FA of two routes on the south face at that time.
The righthand line is "I Spy" and the Lefthand line is "The man from Uncle" both rated 5.11c.

The names, from old TV spy shows, have somehow been lost to time.
By Michael Lagueux
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 15, 2013

Fortunately both of those original names appear in the Hubbard Guide, but the ratings...not so much! Perhaps this page can be changed to reflect the fact that there is no route called "The Sail" on this boulder.
By Adam Stackhouse
Jul 19, 2013

Kennedy/Hubbard guide has some inaccuracies (depending on editions?), but I'll try and get a hold of Ron.
By Hubbard
Jul 27, 2013

Hi Adam, if you are speaking about the book co-authored with Dave Kennedy you will need to speak with him to make hopeful changes. I did the drawings in that book and he did the route input. As far as the Woodson guide on my web-sight goes, the Woodson pages were done without any letter grades on purpose to avoid the usual debates of whether something is 10c or 10d and is meant to be used as a quick field reference only, as is stated on the topo. Creating topos is a difficult and evolving process and it requires community input. These forums are a perfect place to correct inaccuracies by consensus. Please be specific route by route, rating by rating and I am more than happy to make changes to my material if everyone jumps in and agrees. CH
By Jordan Cannon
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 24, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Not as hard and not as steep as Uncertainty Principle, but a great climb nonetheless!

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