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The Tombstone
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S Cracker, The T 
Tombstone, The T 

The S Cracker 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tim Sorenson, Dan Michael and Alan Bartlett, March 1981
Page Views: 1,210
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: "The S Cracker". Photo by Blitzo.


The obvious S shaped crack on the east side of the Tombstone. If you follow the standard approach along the west side of the Grey Giant, this route will be just out of view on the left flank of the Tombstone.Climb up easy rock to a bolt, then move right into the crack. Set some thin gear for a sequency, traversing crux. Soon the crack angles straight up and eases a bit, but a second crux comes near the top: thin laybacking with tricky gear on perfect rock. A compelling line, with strenuous climbing and technical gear. I didn't lead this, but felt it was _PG_ at the crux. An excellent climb, and a hard lead for the grade.Same rickety old anchor as noted in the other route descriptions.


standard rack, esp thin TCUs and wires

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By Vernon Stiefel
Sep 17, 2003

This route is definitely not 10c as listed in Randy's guidebook. AJ's comments concerning the technical and strenuous aspect of the climbing and gear placement are right on. The lone bolt is a rusty 1/4" but the climbing is not too difficult prior to solid gear placements. Three out of five stars for quality.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 4, 2005

The first ascent of this was actually led by Tim Sorenson (Tobin's younger brother). Alan Bartlett and Dan Michael followed.
By Randy
Jan 5, 2005

If you are going to make corrections to FA info and provide some historical fact, do not do it as "anonymous coward." It is pretty hard to verify information from an unknown source.
By Timothy Sorenson
Feb 13, 2005

Can't say if I followed or traded off on the lead of S Cracker, but do remember it was a joint effort.
By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 13, 2005

Randy - the FA party is well documented in Alan's Wonderland guide, so no real mystery there. Thanks to AC's (was that you Tim?) post noting the omission.
By Timothy Sorenson
Feb 16, 2005

It was not I.
By Dave M Snyder
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Mar 14, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The first bolt shank is bent at about a 75 deg angle. Make a few moves on good jugs past it to get a good piece of gear in. Excellent climbing!
By Tradiban
Nov 11, 2013

This thing looked REALLY excellent. I shall return!

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