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Beastie Alley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Danger Mouse S 
Fake-P, The T 
Inner Sanctum S 
Jaws S 
Lichen to Liken T 
Pony Express T,S 
Rusty-P, The T 
Thunder Toad S 
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 
Unnamed T,S 
Unnamed Fissure T 
Unnatural Attraction S 

The Rusty-P 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: pre-1984
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Nov 14, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The Rusty-P in its native habitat. And, yes, it is...

Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is most likely 'The Rusty-P', as described in the old "Tao's Rock II" guide (1984). The location and description seem to match pretty well, and it does possess a rusty piton up high near the end. Start up at a right-angling crack, and either follow that or aim for some more overlaps above. Then either scamper around on the face (slinging a chickenhead), or aim right toward a crack system. Pass by the piton in the crack (the pin is not useful for pro, though), and aim for the chains on top of The Fake-P. Overall, much more mellow than most 5.7's, but I left the grade as originally presented.
The old-timey guides' beta is as such: "just behind A-frame to East find crack, climb crack using face on right, bear left at top of crack, 3rd class to belay stance, hardest part about this climb is figuring out how-the -hell to get down" (1984). (The new bolt anchor at the top of The Fake-P obviates this problem). In the "Taos Rock III" guide (1991), Rusty P is described simply as a "Laid back crack with ancient pin." Both guides have this climb mapped on the SW end of Mosaic Rock, so it seems likely this is it. If anyone knows this to be wrong, I'll amend this page.

Location 

On the west facing buttress to the climber's right of Beastie Alley; about 25 feet left of the start of The Fake-P.

Protection 

Single gear rack. One nice chickenhead can be slung.


Photos of The Rusty-P Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting zone for The Rusty-P (5.7), Mosaic Rock, ...
BETA PHOTO: Starting zone for The Rusty-P (5.7), Mosaic Rock, ...

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