Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Beastie Alley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Danger Mouse S 
Fake-P, The T 
Inner Sanctum S 
Jaws S 
Lichen to Liken T 
Pony Express T,S 
Rusty-P, The T 
Thunder Toad S 
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 
Unnamed T,S 
Unnamed Fissure T 
Unnatural Attraction S 

The Fake-P 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 534
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Aug 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The Fake-P (5.7), Mosaic Rock, Tres Piedras, NM.

Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A 2-bolt anchor with chains appeared several years ago on this low buttress. The bulging face directly below the bolts appears to be unprotectable for quite a ways up. However, an easy crack approaches the bolts from pretty far to the left, and it's a pretty good beginner lead. Once the rope is hung from the chains, though, it's kind of hard to rap back down the crack because it's so far off the plumb line. Instead, the 5.8 face directly below can be toproped, although this is also kind of a PITA because the bolts are so far back behind the bulge that you end up with a bit of rope drag, and the oak trees at the base are in the way.
[Edit 2016] I once thought that this crack was 'The Rusty-P', as described in the old "Tao's Rock II" guide (1984). The location and description seemed to match, but I was perplexed by the absence of a piton. Since then, we found the piton off to the left, clearly not on this route. Hence, I renamed this route here on MP with the vaguely "P" related name. If any actual FA info shows up, let me know and I'll amend this page.

Location 

Located on the low southwestern buttress of Mosaic Rock, between Independence Gully to the right, and Beastie Alley to the left.

Protection 

To lead the crack on the left, a single rack of cams and nuts suffice.


Comments on The Fake-P Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steven Reneau
Aug 28, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Seemed easier than other 5.7s at TP. Several TR variations of varying grades are possible below the anchors, though oak branches do get in the way a bit. But we didn't find the rope drag to be too bad.