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4. Wonderland Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blackout T 
Cleaning up the Scraps T 
Coyote Rain T 
Do You Want Your Pant Legs? T 
Evening Blues T 
Gentle Violence T,S 
Gold Lion T,S 
Mighty Quinn, The T 
Rona's Roof T 
Route Vultures, The T 
Short Stack T,S 
Speck In My Eye T 
Trifecta T 
Weston's Syrup T 
Winter Classic T,S 
Wonderland T,S 

The Route Vultures 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Loran Smith and Joshua Corbett April 3. 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 489
Submitted By: EDGE on Apr 3, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Jay just befor the crux

Description 

A worthwhile addition to the far right side of the Wonderland Wall, this route was named for the turkey vulture circling overhead as it was cleaned on rappel. Longstack's carcass continues to get picked clean...

P1: Amble up the easy but interesting face with good pro where you need it. Head towards the middle of the thin roof up high, and pull through at the obvious small dike. A short, quizzical crux leads to a step left and the Rona's Roof anchor.

P2: From the tree anchor, climb up through a series of short clean walls separated by dirt covered ledges trending up and slightly left. 5.3

Location 

Starts between Rona's Roof and Evening Blues, directly behind a small pair of beech saplings. Rap off of the Rona's Roof anchor with one rope, or from the top of the cliff walk to climber's left 15' and rap from the Coyote Rain anchors.

Protection 

Good gear which includes small wired stoppers, a 2 1/2-3" cam, and a few small cams. One fixed pin protects the midsection; tie it off with a runner to avoid a biner from being side loaded over the edge. Probably not a good intro to the grade as the gear protecting the crux will be below your feet as you step over the small roof.


Photos of The Route Vultures Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay starting the route
Jay starting the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Joshua preparing to tackle the crux bulge.
Joshua preparing to tackle the crux bulge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Joshua on the fun 5.5 face leading to the crux bul...
Joshua on the fun 5.5 face leading to the crux bul...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joshua low on the route.
Joshua low on the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Joshua Corbett prepares to follow and clean gear a...
Joshua Corbett prepares to follow and clean gear a...

Comments on The Route Vultures Add Comment
Show which comments
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Apr 3, 2013

Sorry Jon, you're new guide isn't even out yet and it already needs an update...
By chinos
Apr 5, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I know I saw this yesterday when I was out there. Looks good tho
By chinos
Apr 5, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good thing swain is coming out with a guide!
By chinos
Apr 5, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A committing move over the final crux bulge. A tough onsight!
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
May 7, 2013

Someone had to do it, so today Joshua Corbett and I scrubbed a second pitch leading to the top of the cliff. 5.3 climbing on short, clean walls separated by dirt and soil covered ledges; probably best to rap from P1 unless you need to get to the cliff top or like that sort of thing.
By sclair
From: SLC, Ut
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I thought this was evening blues (because I only had the guidebook...). Toproped it after reaching the anchors on Rona. Imagined it to be very committing on lead, but very enjoyable movement- the dike crux almost came out of nowhere after cruiser climbing early on the route.

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