The Route of All Evil or F.M.B.
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BETA PHOTO: First Ascent.
Let me preface this. Supposedly this route was climbed a long time ago but I cleaned it extensively and it has not been reported officially anywhere. Take it for what it's worth.
Description: Follow the rightward leading hand crack with good protection. Grab face holds when you can and pull up into the crack. Once there, follow the face up to a stance. Here, if you are tall enough you can get a yellow alien in the high crack. If not, you might have to run it out. If so, you're looking at a long fall. It is possible to sling a root at chest height but the FA party didn't so it's up to you. From here, pull the flake with marginal feet up to the next flake, with less marginal feet. Then pull onto the top.
The Inner Wall at Index Town Walls. Follow the description there. It is two climbs left of Toxic Shock, next to the 5.10d corner.
Two number one's and two number two's and a yellow alien.
|Comments on The Route of All Evil or F.M.B.
By Robert Fisher
Jul 1, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The route is very short and needs a lot more cleaning to be worth anyone's while. If you are in the area, climb Index 5.8 and want to check out a dirt circus, have a go.
As an aside to the cleaner, Typically routes that have anecdotal previous ascent information are respected, even those without names. Reporting this as "Unnamed 5.9 crack" and FA Unkown would be more appropriate than renaming and giving yourself credit.
By Colin Bartholomew
Jul 5, 2010
Was it wet when you climbed it Robert? Cause that can affect the grade significantly.
Aug 8, 2010
You can also just boulder up this, no gear needed.