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The Rotten and the Wicked 

Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 1 pitch, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+ [details]
FA: Ethan Y.
Season: Whenever it's dry and cold!
Page Views: 325
Submitted By: Ethan Y on Dec 24, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Wicked boulder

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org

Description 

Left hand up to a big sloper rail, right-hand to a small crimp. Heel-hook or stand strong, and shoot big with the right hand to a sloper pinch up high facing the wrong direction. Hold the barndoor, match and finish.

This problem took me close to a year to send, with a key hold breaking up top a week before I finally found the correct solution. I cleaned this entire boulder for this problem, including removing about 30 pounds of vegetation from the slabby topout. Truthfully, the hardest part of the f.a. was getting ideal temperatures, as the boulder holds moisture for up to a week after a rain and the sloper is damn near useless in hot weather. I really don't have a great handle on the grade of this one--other, stronger climbers have tried it and not been able to hit the hold on the crux move, much less hold onto it. Perhaps it is because I am tall and flexible, or maybe because I spent so much time building muscle memory. A real process putting this up, and I would love any and all feedback!
Top 3 problem in the Middlebury region. I understand how ridiculous this statement is, but this problem really is worth the effort.

Location 

Start on the big jug rail on the left side of the Wicked boulder. Walk off the backside.

Protection 

couple pads are nice, but the manufactured landing area has leveled out quite nicely


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