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The Rook 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Not known
Page Views: 5,333
Submitted By: Mark Oveson on Aug 26, 2005  with updates from ChefMattThaner

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The Rook, from the low point on the ridge between ...


The Rook is south of the Bishop and slightly west of the Shoshoni-Apache ridge. It can be seen from the Isabelle Glacier cirque and from many points along the Kasparov Traverse and is justifyably the focus of attention. The rook is tall, round, and steep from all sides. The capstone creates overhangs on several aspects. The whole tower seems to lean out to the west over the expanse of air above Lone Eagle Cirque. The whole project looks improbable from every angle.

From a position south of the Rook, traverse north along a narrow ledge, staying on the east side of the main ridge. This ledge leads to a comfortable belay just below a notch between the Rook and a much smaller finger of rock that might as well be called the Rook's Pawn.

From the belay, traverse south to a thick, detached flake and traverse right to get on top of the flake, which forms a ledge. Follow a prominent hand crack as it curves up and left, pull throught the roof on the left near a piton, traverse above the roof to the right and reach the summit and a two-piton anchor. These pitons were rusty but in reasonably good shape in August 2005.

Bill Wright climbed all the moves free with some resting on pieces, and he estimates the route would go free at 5.10+ or 5.11-.


Stoppers and medium-size cams

Photos of The Rook Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Oveson rappelling from the Rook.
Mark Oveson rappelling from the Rook.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route on the Rook
BETA PHOTO: The route on the Rook
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Oveson on top of the Rook
Mark Oveson on top of the Rook

Comments on The Rook Add Comment
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By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Following my partner up the Rook, we both agreed that the route was nowhere near 5.10+/5.11-. I was able to free it all first go, and believe that a 5.9 rating is appropriate. The hand crack hosts great jams, and only one tricky move separates the crack from the large jugs hiding in and over the roof. Don't let the grade scare you away, this is an awesome route with great gear, get on it!
By ChefMattThaner
From: Lakewood, co
Jun 26, 2014

So someone dismantled Bill's anchor and piled it on the summit?? Then rapped off what? That is weird.
By Furthermore
Jul 9, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The trick we found is to put a cam high in the crack just below the roof and traverse RIGHT out of the roof. Feels somewhat insecure, but the climbing doesn't exceed 5.9. Good footwork required. Once you traverse out, gear is plentiful and the climbing is solid to the top.

Don't be suckered in following the pins directly through or left of the roof.
By Stefan Griebel
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 15, 2017

I soloed a variation that spiraled around to the back NW side. Steep, exposed, maybe 5.8ish. A touch loose in spots, but all the loose stuff was easily avoided with solid, juggy handholds. Oddly, the downclimb was actually easier than going up!

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