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The Roofs of Jericho 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: I. Horn, T. Goss
Page Views: 4,876
Submitted By: chris cook on Feb 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Andrei Zippy pulling the big Roof of Jericho


For exact approach look in Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah by T. Goss. Start is behind a bush, just right of a dihedral. 5.9 climbing up varnished edges to crux over the first roof.

Excellent belay station for second pitch, however significant rope drag over the first roof for the second ascender. Second pitch is a little more crimpy with a tougher second roof crux. Two rappels down with single rope or walk off if you want a long hike down.


quickdraws...13 should do.

Photos of The Roofs of Jericho Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle of the 1st pitch.
Middle of the 1st pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from under the second roof at Kip Hen...
Looking down from under the second roof at Kip Hen...

Comments on The Roofs of Jericho Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 21, 2017
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Nov 19, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

this is a stellar route. very easy climbing with 2 roof cruxes. the first roof wigged me out because it isnt part of the wall itself. its suspended. i kept imagining it falling apart on us.
By Dan Lay
Nov 30, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Awesome route. Easy climbing first pitch. 1st roof I would rate a 10c, but second roof looks like a 10d or possible 11a.
By zoso
Dec 23, 2008

2nd roof harder??? Say what? Crux is 1st roof. Der. I'm right. You're wrong. he he he
By Klimbien
From: St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Aug 14, 2009

I love this route - a little history to help w/ the route description though...when the route was originally bolted the first pitch was the easiest, including the roof, however around 2005 some climbers jumped on it after recent moisture had come through the area and key jugs were broken off of that roof. This significantly changed the route and made the first roof harder than the second. These changes make the climber go through the fist roof using specific holds with a sequence that isn't the most natural. Back in the day though the jugs were nice and you could easily match - taking away any need to lead into that section w a specific sequence (if I remember correctly you lead into it with your Left hand reaching high from those super nice under clings) with the route trending to the right away from you and then back left once you get up over the roof.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 10, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Thanks for the history - good to know I've not completely lost my mind? Hadn't been there in years and just climbed it last weekend. Volunteered for the 'crux' pitch because I thought I remembered the first roof being much easier. Instead it was much harder - 10d or maybe a bit harder?

Any contact info for the handle vandals? :) Hope they learned something that day!

Also there is a very nice single pitch line (10ish) to the left of the first pitch. Can't miss the shiny hangers - wish they'd paint those!
By Bruce Nielson
Aug 19, 2011

what is the crack to the left of this route named.
After climbing it it feel like 5.9. standard rack to 4in doubles for medium-size cams would be helpful
By Dr. Dan
From: Steamboat Springs, CO
Apr 23, 2012

Led this route 2005, 2007, 2009 and today, 4/23/2012. There are definitely a few holds missing on roof1 making it more sequnce dependent, but I still think 10c is still accurate. I also led the single pitch immediately to left of P1 and thought that pitch was 10d.
By Klimbien
From: St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Jul 2, 2012

@ Stan Pitcher & Dr. Dan - Unfortunately, I do know the vandals and am glad to report - they don't climb any more....More unfortunate, I found the missing holds while free soloing the route!! Made for an exciting day to say the least.
By brucy
Apr 9, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

We thought the moves on the roof to be more like 11a not 10c in keeping with the ratings on the rest of the wall.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 24, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I agree with Brucy. For me, First roof is much harder than the second and harder than Equanimity. Also, if you are worried about decking on the second roof you can place finger size pro above the bolt.
By Ross Thompson
From: SLC, UT
Mar 7, 2016

Friend and I strongly disliked this route. Pretty much 5.8+/9- climbing up to the roof, which is a one move wonder at 10C. Rope drag was completely heinous, strong recommend alpine draws below/above the roof. Did not continue to P2.
By Julius Grisette
From: Carbondale
Mar 21, 2017

stellar route

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