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The Roof Area
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The Roof 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,773
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: FF/A of Worsman's Roof, Feb. '87

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This ascends the obvious roof crack via a cave. The crux is reaching up with the right hand and reaching for a "sliding pinky slot." From this reasonably good hold, one pulls the feet up and finishes off via lieback move or two. Thrilling route. Highly recommended


Two Bolts for TR

Photos of The Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The roof dixon lake.
The roof dixon lake.
Rock Climbing Photo: FF/A of Worsman's Roof, Feb. '87. You can see my l...
BETA PHOTO: FF/A of Worsman's Roof, Feb. '87. You can see my l...

Comments on The Roof Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Mar 4, 2006

This was traditionaly rated at 10d, but many have rated this at 11a. You make the choice...
By Adam Stackhouse
Mar 20, 2006

There is a 5.11 variation employing the dark colored face directly or slightly left, below the roof.
By G.McCay
From: Galloway, NJ
Dec 5, 2007

Some recent facts on "The Roof" at Dixon Lake...

RE: post
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Sent:Thu 11/29/07 12:57 PM


"...The original name of that climb was "Worsman's Roof". Ed Worsman was the first to toprope the moves between the two of us. At that time, there was still the stump of a tree sticking out of the upper crack (I had cut the tree off and left the stump as a part of the climb). Eventually the stump rotted out and left that just less than perfect sized crack. I got the first free lead and actually used the stump as protection by slinging it. I doubt it would have held even a small fall! Fun times, those were...

Anyway, look forward to chatting with you one of these days.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 28, 2008

This route was over too quick.
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This climb takes gear for a lead quite well. Very small cams to 2". It appears there were once pins at the lip of the roof, making nice alien pockets.

Very difficult short crux. Tape recommended.
By bajaandy
From: Escondido, CA
May 24, 2009

Pins were never a part of this climb. Back in the day I lead it with just slung stoppers and wired nuts. I don't know who added the anchor bolts at the top, but those were never necessary either. There's a huge bolder that you can sling with a long piece of webbing. But whatever...
By Steve Shumaker
Jun 2, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I remember this being rated 5.10b (20 years ago). Definitely easier than Double D, even before the crux hold broke off on Double D. Good climb to lead.
By Alex Morin
May 1, 2016

Great route! Reaching out of the roof and cranking on a one finger jam to another was the crux for me. Make sure you tape both index fingers or else. 11a for sure.

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