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The Roof of Inequity 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: M Crocker, M Ward, 1987
Season: year round
Page Views: 20
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Nov 24, 2013

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Description 

Sometimes listed as "The Root of Inequity". Not sure which one's correct, but I prefer Roof. The main point of this route is the roof pull, and it's over pretty quickly.

A bouldery start (stick-click advised) past the first two bolts gains a big ledge and full rest. Climb steadily (high 5.10, maybe) on big holds past 2 more bolts and a piton to gain the undercut on the roof. Clip the bolt on the lip then make a few big moves on surprisingly good pocket holds and rock up onto the slab above. A few more easy moves remain to clip the chains.

Location 

Near the right-hand end of the crag. Start below the roof with the obvious chalked-up undercling.

Protection 

6 bolts, 1 piton, 2-bolt anchor.


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By Ben Broche
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 21, 2014

Did this a few years ago - awesome movement through the roof, height dependent feels 7b/.12b if you're a shorty like me.

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