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The Romulan Route 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Todd Bradlee 6/95
Page Views: 866
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Maine working the final overhang guarding the chai...


Two crux overhangs guard the chains on this exciting climb. Easy climbing gets you to the first overhang where interesting beta or a well-placed dyno gains a jug and a mantle gets you to a nice ledge. The next overhang is well protected and so tricky (or down right hard). I don't know if I have the right beta yet.but work your way through the roof to a tricky and often sandy top out.

It's really just 2 boulder problems on top of each other, but hey we are at Rumney, is that so rare?


Basically in the middle of the cliff...Just right of the trad route, Starship Enterprise (5.9+).


4 bolts to LO.

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By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
May 6, 2012

Does this route still have a tree anchor?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 6, 2012

i think i did see a bolt anchor up there last time... which would help with the sandy top out... ill check sometime and make the change...
By twellman
From: Cambridge
May 7, 2012

There is a bolt anchor. Apparently (according to the ARI section in the back of climbing magazine), Tim Kemple sr finished her up one day after the forest fire and the old anchor was burned! So he replaced it. Thanks Tim.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Sep 15, 2014

The top crux felt hard as hell and I'd love to get some beta on this as the moves I was attempting seemed harder than any 5.11a moves I've ever done. Sadly, I bailed off the last draw. I'll probably get back on this next weekend but if anyone is on this before then I'd love to get it back, you can PM me. I'm not too worried as it seems like hardly anyone climbs at starship. :)
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I remember the section from the last draw to the anchor being hard on the onsight.
When you go back on it, look for a key hold on the left that is hard to see but once you have it, the moves to the anchor feels like 11a. I just can't remember if it's a right or a left hand hold.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Sep 15, 2014

Thank you, I'll try to look out for something like that. I swear I tried everything, haha.

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