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The Road Less Traveled 

WI4 M3 R

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'
Original: WI4 M3 R [details]
FA: D. Snively, J. Hill, B. Gillett, 1997
Season: fall/winter
Page Views: 346
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Dec 4, 2002

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Tom on 12/4/02.


On the R side of this cliff is a broader, inviting area with a smattering of ice than can be linked in a variety of lines. This route is great for toproping but lean for leading as the ice is often thinner than it looks and the ice above the bulges often peters out down to rock quickly. I would rate the conditions as we found them 12/4/2 as R/X on lead. Depending on the start and the exact line followed, you can make the line easier or harder. The start with the ice dribbling down to barely touch down creates a stiff surprise if you are searching for a classic WI3. The center line goes past 3 bulges of ice with the top one being potentially the most awkward as the ice rapidly this to pick blunting depth as you attempt to high step onto the final slab. The finish can be smearing with crampons. But dig around in the snow and you just might find some ice to one side or the other. The anchor at 75 feet up is two large trees. Long slings help mitigate rope drag over a log above. You can easily hike around the R side of the cliff to reach these trees. Fun, nonetheless.


Hmmm. Stubbies, perhaps a few pins or small wires. Kahunas in current conditions.

Toprope Protection 

Long slings for the 2 trees at the top of the pitch. Can be done with 1 50m rope

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