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The Roaches

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Five Clouds 
Lower Tier 
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The Roaches Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 1,291'
Location: 53.15752, -1.99255 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,856
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Nov 23, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Ironically some of the best grit is nowhere near Sheffield.

This BIG gritstone crag runs for miles, with a shorter Lower Tier, and a much longer Upper Tier. This is where Joe and Don first met on the rock and boasts such classics as Black and Tans, Valkyrie, Saul's Crack, The Sloth, plus many more. There's much scary hardness here too.

The pro is natural, cams and wires are particularly useful, as are double ropes; a lot of the harder routes use cracks either side for pro.

The something for everybody here - jam cracks abound, roofs , steep walls, slabs - you name it - there's also some good boulders at the base.

Be an expert with natural pro, and natural belay anchors as there are no bolts here.

Getting There 

The nearest town is Leek, from there go north-east on the A53 towards Buxton. Turn off left at Upper Hulme. Soon pass the right turnoff for "Ye Olde Rock" a recommended pub, then down past buildings to the open road which runs along the side of the moors, you'll first see Hen Cloud, and then the big long pull out for The Roaches.

The "Staffordshire Nose" 

A brutal challenge, all in the name of fun of course, is to climb all 31 of the Brown & Whillans routes at the Roaches (plus Hen Cloud and Ramshaw), in a day. Many of the Routes are notorious sandbags, most are crack climbs, and none are to be taken lightly! If you think you're up to it, you can find the complete list of routes as a UKC ticklist

The speed record currently (July 2014) stands at 5 hours, 54 minutes, set on a rainy November day by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.2 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Roaches

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Roaches:
Valkyrie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   Lower Tier
Saul's Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 60'   Upper Tier
The Sloth (HVS 5a)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Tier
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Roaches

Featured Route For The Roaches
Rock Climbing Photo: There's not much for an anchor at the top. Bringin...

Wings of Unreason 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Hard Very Far Skyline Buttr...
Bold, technical, implausible climbing on perfect rock: a Roaches classic. Wings takes a central line up the slab, past some curious crucial pockets.The undercut start is the crux, with a hard rockover move to gain the slab. Easier but unprotected moves up and left gain a pocket and gear (BD #1). Rock up to gain a standing position in the pocket, from which you can look longingly at the top. A wild dyno gives you the extra inches required, and a big rush!...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of The Roaches Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Elegy E2
Elegy E2
Rock Climbing Photo: Gates that enter into the Lower Tier
Gates that enter into the Lower Tier
Rock Climbing Photo: Roaches Upper Tier - Bouldering, Marc Chrysanthou.
Roaches Upper Tier - Bouldering, Marc Chrysanthou.
Rock Climbing Photo: It's sunny, it's dry, it's grit - what more could ...
It's sunny, it's dry, it's grit - what more could ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Roaches Overview Map
BETA PHOTO: Roaches Overview Map

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